Trust · The hiring standard
What a safe, professional install looks like — and how we vet for it.
Roof work, ladders, and electricity deserve better than hiring blind. This is the standard a holiday lighting installer should meet — and the screening Curbstead applies before one is matched to your home.
Why vetting matters in the first place
Holiday lighting is seasonal work at height, on your roof, with electricity — three things that go badly when they’re done casually. Every winter, homeowners hand ladders and extension cords to whoever answers the phone first, and the common failure modes are predictable: stapled shingles, overloaded circuits, strands that die in week two with nobody coming back to fix them.
Vetting exists to move that risk off your driveway before anyone arrives. When the screening happens up front — licensing, insurance, actual roof experience — the quote you compare is from someone already qualified to do the work, not someone you have to qualify yourself mid-conversation.
Insurance: what a professional crew should carry
A crew working on your property should carry general liability coverage — protection for your home if something is damaged — and coverage for their own workers, so an injury on your roof is their insurer’s matter, not your homeowner’s policy’s. A professional outfit can produce a certificate of insurance on request without hesitation; reluctance to show one is itself an answer.
This is one of the first things Curbstead confirms before an installer can receive a request, and it’s a question worth asking any installer you consider, matched through us or not.
Professional installation practice
A professional install looks different from a weekend job in ways you can see from the curb: commercial-grade LED bulbs on lines custom-cut to your roofline, so runs start and end where the architecture does; even spacing held around gables and hips; and a design that follows the house’s lines instead of fighting them. It also differs in ways you can’t see — planned circuits, weather-rated connections, and materials meant to survive a full winter outdoors.
Protecting your roof, gutters, and landscaping
The professional standard is non-penetrating attachment: purpose-made clips that grip shingle edges, gutters, and ridge lines without a single staple, nail, or screw in your roof. Staples through wiring insulation and fasteners through shingles are the two classic marks of an amateur install — both create damage that outlasts the season.
The same care extends to the ground: ladder feet kept off fragile beds, stakes for ground lighting placed clear of irrigation, and tree wraps applied so growth and bark aren’t constricted when the season ends.
Safe electrical practice
Outdoor displays belong on GFCI-protected outlets, connected with outdoor-rated cords and weather-resistant plugs, with the total load planned rather than discovered at the breaker panel. Professional crews plan circuits before hanging the first strand, keep connections off the ground where water pools, and set displays on timers so the system isn’t live around the clock.
Communication while the work happens
A well-run install is boring in the best way: a confirmed window, a crew that walks the property with you (or a plan agreed in advance if you’re not home), and a clear answer for what happens if a section fails mid-season. Ask any installer how they handle in-season service calls — a professional has an answer ready, because strands and bulbs do occasionally fail, and the difference is whether anyone comes back to make it right.
Cleanup you should expect
When the crew leaves, the only new thing on your property should be the display: packaging gone, clipped wire ends collected, ladders and staging cleared, beds and lawn left the way they were found. A finishing walkthrough — lights on, at dusk if the schedule allows — is how a professional closes out the visit.
End-of-season removal
A complete quote answers January before it answers November. Professional installs include takedown as part of the service — done in winter conditions with the same roof-safe care as the install, not left until spring. If lights are leased, storage is the installer’s problem, labeled and maintained for next season; if you own them, expect them returned coiled and boxed, not balled.
Compare qualified installers — don't hire blind
The worst way to hire is the most common: call whoever a search surfaces first, take the one callback, and hope. Skill and price vary widely between crews, and the only way to see that is to compare — but comparing is only useful when everyone quoting has already cleared the same bar.
That’s the role Curbstead plays. We screen installers before they can receive a request — the checks above, applied town by town — so when you request a quote, the comparison starts from qualified. You can read the exact screening steps on our vetting process page and the full checklist on what we check.
Common questions
Hiring questions, answered plainly.
- What insurance should a holiday lighting installer have?
- General liability coverage for damage to your property, and coverage for their own workers so an on-roof injury doesn't land on your homeowner's policy. A professional crew can produce a certificate of insurance on request; hesitation to show one is a warning sign.
- How do professional installers attach lights without damaging a roof?
- With purpose-made non-penetrating clips that grip shingle edges, gutter lips, and ridge lines. No staples, nails, or screws touch the roof, fascia, or gutters — fasteners through shingles and staples through wire insulation are the classic marks of an amateur install.
- Is takedown included in a professional installation quote?
- It should be. A complete quote covers install, in-season service, and end-of-season removal, with storage included when the lights are leased. If a quote is silent about January, ask — removal in winter conditions is real work, and it's better priced up front than negotiated later.
- How does Curbstead's vetting change what I receive?
- It changes what a quote means. Because installers are screened for licensing, insurance, and local roof experience before they can receive a request, the quote you get is from someone already qualified — your comparison starts at 'which qualified installer fits best,' not 'is this person safe to hire.'
Start from qualified.
Two minutes, no account. Your request goes only to a vetted installer who works your town.
Go deeper: our vetting process · what we check · our promise · guides